TRAINING ARTICLES

If this is your first dog, or if you simply need help getting your pup to learn polite behavior, Mostly Mutts is here for you. This article covers all the basics from food to exercise, and most of the basic commands. When you understand your dog, and your dog understands what you want, the relationship can do wonders for you both. Read on and learn more about how to handle that friendly, furry creature you brought into your life.

Exercise - How Much Does a Dog Need?

While a formula would be nice, it depends on the individual dog.

Puppies will have more energy than senior dogs, and working dogs need more exercise than other breeds. Some athletic breeds need lots of physical exercise while other working dogs are looking for more mental stimulation. The American Kennel Club website has a wealth of information about specific breeds, including general activity and barking levels. Remember that while there are common characteristics, each dog is an individual.

Your dog should be getting time outside every day. Walking gives your dog a chance to burn off energy, engage in the sights and smells of nature, and spend time with you. A well-exercised dog is a calm dog.

Mental stimulation is also key. Puzzle games, treat-filled Kongs, and training activities are ways to put your dog’s mind to work.

You may have noticed that adoptable dogs on the Mostly Mutts site have a designated energy level. That’s based on generalities of the breed and Mostly Mutts staffers’ interactions with the individual dogs.

Food - How Much Does a Dog Need?

At Mostly Mutts, adult dogs eat twice a day while puppies eat three times a day.

If you adopt through Mostly Mutts, the MM coordinators can tell you the type of food and amount your pup has been eating.

Feeding guidelines are generally based on a dog’s size and weight. A formula is usually printed on the side of a can of wet food or bag of kibble. You can always ask your veterinarian if you have questions about how much your dog should be eating.

Crating - How Long Is Appropriate?

A dog should not be crated for more than 3-4 hours at a time during the day. Dogs should be able to go 8 hours at night. But if your dog has received proper training, the crate should not be a necessity, but instead a secure retreat when your pup wants to be alone.

Heat and Cold

Protect your pup’s paws when outdoors in the warmer months, as the ground can be much hotter than the air temperature. If you can’t comfortably hold your hand on the pathway for seven seconds, it is too hot for your dog’s paws.

If it’s 77 degrees outside, asphalt can be 125 degrees, according to the American Kennel Club.

And it goes without saying, NEVER leave your dog in the car when it’s below 30 or above 70. It takes only minutes for a car to reach 115 degrees when it’s only 70 outside. (To avoid other dangers and anxiety, dogs should not be left in a car for more than 5 minutes ever.)

The Basics of Effective Training

Be confident!
Positive reinforcement is key!
High value treats (chicken, Pupperoni) shouldn’t be used for basic training, but should instead be saved for when needed.
Your dog has a short attention span. Running through a cue 10 times is usually enough for a training session, and you can have multiple sessions in a day.
Train your dog in a place with minimal distractions.
If your dog is losing focus, that’s okay! End the training session and try again later. Getting frustrated or yelling isn’t going to help your dog focus.
Work on training every day, even if it’s just for a few minutes. Repetition and patience are key!
Once your dog has mastered a step, as in he routinely can follow your command nine times out of 10, you can move on to the next step.
In the examples below, we’re using an excited “Yesss!” (or word of your choice) to mark that your dog did what you asked of her; and then as positive reinforcement, offer her a high value treat as a reward.

Teaching Your Dog to Sit

Have your dog on a leash.
Stand in front of your dog with a treat visible in one hand while you hold his leash in your other hand.
Hold the treat in front of your dog’s snout and trace an arc up and back over your dog’s head. As your dog follows the treat with his snout, his hind quarters will go down into a seated position.
Once he’s done this several times, you can introduce the “Sit!” command.

Teaching “Down” or “Lay Down”

*Your dog must first have mastered "sit".

Start with your leashed dog in a seated position.
Stand, sit or crouch in front of your dog with a treat visible in one hand while you hold his leash in your other hand.
Hold the treat in front of your dog’s snout, slowly drawing your hand down to the ground, then pulling the treat along the ground back toward you. Your dog’s snout will follow the treat. Once his paws are extended and he’s in a down position, say “Yesss!” and then give your dog the treat.
When your dog has done this 10 times, you can introduce the “Jack, down” or “Jack, lay down” command.

Teaching “Stay”

*Your dog must first have mastered "sit".

Start with your dog in a seated position. Stand in front of him with the leash in one hand, a treat in the other, and your feet hip-width apart.
Say “Stay!” Hold up hand like a stop sign and then pick up one of your feet and slowly rock back before returning to your initial stance. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, say “stay“ and give your dog the treat. If he didn’t, do not give him the treat and try it again.
Once successful, try rocking back on your other foot. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, give your dog the treat.
If you’re having success with the rock-back steps, you’re ready to move on. Say “stay!” and take a small step from your dog before returning to your initial stance. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, give your dog the treat.
If you’re having success, build on this to taking two steps away, then three steps and beyond. Each time, return to your initial stance, and if your dog hasn’t strayed from his seated position, give him a treat.
If your dog does get up, DON’T say “no.” Just start again from the beginning.

Teaching “Come”

Did you know you should NEVER chase a dog who is running? You should turn the other direction and start running. The dog will in turn follow. So, let's train COME to be fun and rewarding. Get two people each with treats standing about 30 feet away from each other. Say your dog's name and come. “Marley, Come.” That's it. Look at your toes once you say the command. Once again, dogs follow our eyes for direction. Reward once the dog comes. Only say the command 3 times counting to 10 in between each command. You can also add kissing sounds and or clapping to help. If the dog does not come walk away. They must fail to succeed. Come closer together to help him out if needed.

Then, to strengthen, add distance between the two people. Also add corners, so the dog cannot see you. Start to apply this in the backyard -- every time you call them reward with a treat. If they don't come, close the door and walk away for one minute, then try again. Once your dog is mastering the command at home, you can begin to try in places with distractions. You want to make sure that if your dog takes off that he will stop dead in his tracks when you say come, no matter the distraction!

Teaching “Leave it”

Phase 1: Put a treat in hand and make a fist. Place in front of dog’s nose. Let him sniff, lick, nipple and ignore and do not move your hand! Once he pulls his head away, say "LEAVE IT" and hand him the treat. Repeat this until you get 9 out of 10 where he doesn't attempt to sniff or lick the hand.

Phase 2: Now your dog understands what Leave It means! Put the treat between your thumb and pointer finger, all the way to the bottom of your finger and squeeze it, making a four. Present your hand to your dog and say "LEAVE IT” as the hand is moving to his nose. At first, he will sniff and be interested in the treat. You can say "LEAVE IT" one more time. The dog should move his head slightly away from your hand, the give him the treat. You want 9 out of 10 of moving head away from hand before you move onto Phase 3.

Phase 3: Put the treat in the palm of your hand, with your hand open. As you present it, say "LEAVE IT". The dogs head should move away. Give him the treat. Get 9 out of 10 before you move onto Phase 4.

Phase 4: Put the treat on the ground in front of your dog. As you are placing it on the ground, say "LEAVE IT". Do NOT let the dog get the treat! Slowly build up time of the treat being in front of him. and give him the treat. NEVER let your dog come to the treat. ALWAYS bring the treat to him. Now that your dog knows “leave it,” you can apply it to daily life.

Start by practicing “leave it” for one or two things. Some examples: If your dog eats shoes, set up training sessions with the shoe on the ground and say "LEAVE IT" then reward. Later, when you see your dog going for a shoe, all you need to do is say "LEAVE IT". Another example is when/if your dog growls or gets over excited when it sees another dog on walks. As that dog approaches, say "LEAVE IT" and reward. In this case you will need to say it multiple times to build up their tolerance. So as the dog approaches say, "LEAVE IT", reward and repeat. You want your dog to look at the approaching dog, say "LEAVE IT" look again, say "LEAVE IT" and so on. Each walk you can add a couple of seconds between the “LEAVE IT" building their tolerance.

Teaching “Drop it”

Start by playing tug with your dog, while you have treats hidden in your hand or pocket.
Say, “Drop it” and hold the treat right in front of his nose.
He should drop the tug toy out of excitement to get the treat. (That’s why high-value treats are key.) As soon as he drops the toy, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver the treat

Teaching “Place”

This is often taught using a dog/bathmat. The point is to provide a defined location.
Lure your dog to the designated place.
When he puts all four paws on the dog mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
After you have done this multiple times, say “place” and walk with your dog to the mat. When he puts all four paws on the mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
Note that you should always be looking at the mat once you say “place”. If you’re not looking at your dog, your dog will want to know what you’re looking at, so his eyes will go where yours go.
Keep repeating these steps.
Eventually, you should get to the point where you say “Place” and start to head toward the mat and your dog will walk there on his own. Say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat. Then work to where you can say “Place” and nod your head toward the mat. If your dog walks there on his own, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
Over time, add in a few extra steps between your starting point and the mat.
Each time your dog puts all four paws on the mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.

How Long Does Training Take?

Training for a dog is a lifelong experience. You should always be reinforcing the behaviors you want to see in your dog with treats and praise. Training can also help you bond more quickly with your new pet. It does take time for dogs to settle into new homes:

3 Days – the length of time it takes a dog to decompress in a new environment.
3 Weeks – the length of time it takes a dog to get used to a new routine.
3 Months – the length of time it takes a dog to feel at home in a new environment.

Having behavior problems that you can’t solve?

If you’ve been working with your dog patiently and are still having significant problems click here for more behavior help.

Common Foods That Are Toxic to Dogs

This is not a complete list

Alcohol
Avocados
Chocolate
Citrus fruits
Coffee grounds
Coconuts
Garlic
Grapes
Mushrooms
Onions
Raisins
Raw eggs
Raw meat
Xylitol (a sweetener commonly found in sugar-free foods such as sugarless gum. Note that some nut butters may also use xylitol.)