HOW TO STOP YOUR DOG FROM CHEWING
(Before beginning any training, it’s important to first read our article on Leadership.)
Chewing as a puppy
Puppies use their mouths to learn about the world. Think about a human baby or toddler. What’s the first thing they do once they’re old enough to grab? They put everything in their mouths. This holds true for pups, too, so you want to make sure your pup’s environment is safe and engaging.
You can help set them up for success! Don’t leave items in your puppy’s presence that you don’t want chewed. They can’t destroy what they can’t get to, so keep socks, sneakers, favorite blankets, TV remotes, children’s toys (and the list goes on) out of their reach. Teething tends to occur at or around 4 months old … and chewing can help relieve discomfort when your puppy is teething. Invest in a teething ring chew toy. You can even store it in the freezer to give your pup some extra relief. Teething generally ends by the time the puppy is eight months old.
Fortunately, teething – and often chewing – are stages that you and your dog will get through. The aim is to get through it with your sanity, your dog’s digestive system and your valuables intact.
Chewing due to boredom
Dogs, especially younger ones, have plenty of energy, and need ways to release it. Some breeds, such as working breeds, are especially energetic as it’s in their DNA to be active. For these reasons, it’s important to ensure that your dog is getting plenty of mental and physical stimulation, such as daily walks, games of fetch and even training sessions with you. These activities can ward off the behaviors you don’t want to see while also improving your bond.
Your dog should have a variety of his own toys to keep him occupied. If you find your pup chewing on an item he’s not supposed to, calmly and firmly say “no” or make a yelping noise or another quick corrective sound, take the item away and immediately replace it with one of your dog’s toys. Redirection is key.
When your pup is playing with his own toys, praise him! This is when you say YES.
A variety of toys could include some soft toys (that only come out under your supervision, if your dog is a shredder), braided rope toys for tugging and shaking, balls to chase, puzzle toys that contain treats, hard chew toys such as Nylabones, and edible bones. (Don’t make the mistake of giving your dog cooked bones from your own dinner. Cooked bones can splinter and cause a choking emergency.)
While there’s no set formula for exercise, your dog should be getting time outside every day. You may notice that your dog is calmer when he gets multiple short walks in the day or when he gets a solid 90-minute walk. Enjoy that time with him!
The goal is to create a home environment where your dog can be trusted loose, even if it means using gates to secure a safe room or two, and expanding the area as you can. Your pup should not be spending her day in a crate.
Be careful about sending mixed messages
Let’s say you have a child in your home who tends to leave stuffed animals around…and you also buy stuffed animals for your dog. How is he to know the stuffed animal within his reach isn’t for him?
In the same vein, don’t give him a throwaway pair of sneakers if you catch him chomping on your favorite kicks and don’t buy your dog chew toys that resemble shoes. There is no way for your dog to know that only certain shoes are off limits.
Don’t get discouraged. You know the phrase, “If at first you don’t succeed…”? Well, it’s all but assured that at first you *won’t* succeed in getting your dog to stop chewing all items all the time. There’s a degree of trial and error as you figure out what’s behind the chewing and what will motivate your dog to stop.
Dog chewing on paws / tail
Is your dog chewing his paws or chewing his tail? If you’ve already ruled out boredom, it can be helpful to seek out a vet’s advice. Your dog may be itchy due to an allergy. A change in food might be all he needs. (And some dogs are highly allergic to food mites, which can be mitigated by storing sealed baggies of dry food in the freezer.)
Chewing out of frustration or excitement
If you’re at home and your dog is chewing on something he shouldn’t, you can shake a plastic bottle filled with pennies. The sound can be enough to stop your pup in his tracks, and then you can redirect him to a suitable chew toy. (Keep the bottle of pennies out of reach so *it* doesn’t become the chew toy.)
If you’ve crate-trained your dog, he will see the crate as his personal safe space. Rather than face potential destruction, you can crate your pup if you’ll be leaving him alone for a few hours.
Chewing on dog beds or blankets
Some dogs will tear up their fluffy dog beds but leave a folded blanket unscathed. Some will shred a blanket but never chew on their dog bed. Some will lie happily on a bath mat but destroy other items. It comes down to trial and error. While you’re figuring it out, don’t spend lots of money on items that might be destroyed immediately.
Dog chewing food waste
Is your dog getting enough to eat? Check with your vet to be sure your dog’s nutritional needs are being met.
If your dog tends to get into the garbage, place the can in a closed cupboard or invest in a trash can that seals shut. Your pup may find the smells irresistible, and there is plenty in your trash that can harm your dog.
Chewing deterrents
Counter surfing is a self-rewarding behavior, so make sure there is nothing they can reach on the counter.
Some scents are deterrents, and there are a number of sprays on the market that can protect your furniture or other items. The spray has an unappealing smell and taste, which may be enough to keep your pup’s jaws off your coffee table leg.
Maybe your issue is outside. Is your dog chewing on the mulch in your flower beds? Try spraying the area down with a homemade vinegar and water solution.
Never muzzle your dog as a way to discourage chewing.
Still having problems?
If you’ve been working with your dog patiently and are still having significant problems, click here for more behavior help.
LEASH AGGRESSION (reactivity)
(For best results, read our article on Leadership before beginning any other training.)
What Is Leash Reactivity?
Does your dog jump, bark or seem aggressive at other people or dogs while on a leash? Or are there other stimuli that cause this behavior such as cars, bicycles or squirrels? Does your dog redirect at you by biting or nipping? This is considered leash reactivity. As a dog owner, it can be a frustrating and even embarrassing behavior. But before you begin to correct it, it helps to understand it.
To your dog, being on a leash is not a natural state. Instead, it is a state of confinement. When they lunge or bark at a trigger such as another dog, it is an involuntary reaction to an emotion. This could be fear, frustration, excitement, or desire for conflict. ( While the desire for conflict is rare, there are some dogs who will seek out a fight. In this case, it is best to seek the help of a professional – email us at
What not to do
Leash reactive behavior is correctable, but before we discuss what to do, it’s important to know what NOT TO DO.
- DO NOT yell, jerk or grab your dog. Remember, this is an involuntary behavior – your dog is not trying to annoy you. Punishing your dog might lead to increased anxiety and more poor behavior
- DO NOT use any corrective collars without consulting a professional. Improper use of these collars can lead to fear and anxiety, resulting in new unwanted behaviors.
- DO NOT use retractable leashes as they don’t give you proper control and can break under tension
- DO NOT introduce your dog to other dogs while on a leash. Many dog owners do this with good intentions, but in their natural world, dogs greet each other from the side. A face-to-face meeting could mean unwanted confrontation. And fearful dogs who feel confined by the leash might act aggressively when otherwise they might not.
Correcting Leash Reactivity
- First, determine what triggers your dog. For some dogs, it might simply be other animal. But dogs may have many triggers.
- Begin your training far enough away from the trigger that your dog doesn’t react, for instance, the other side of the street. When your dog sees the trigger, use a marker word like “leave it” or “look” “Yes” leave it or look and hold up a treat. When he doesn’t react at the trigger, but instead looks at you, reward him with the treat. This will begin to get him to look at you and away from the trigger to receive the treat. If your dog reacts to the trigger, you will need to move further away until he can see the trigger without reacting. Soon, your dog will learn that seeing the trigger is associated with something positive – he is rewarded with something yummy. Repeat this 10-15 times. Use his favorite treats and if necessary, increase the value of the reward – such as using bites of chicken.
- If you have trouble moving far enough away from the trigger, you can try an alternate way at home. Toss a toy or ball and when your dog looks at it, use your marker word and hold up a treat. When your dog looks at you instead of the toy, reward him with a treat. Again, he will be learning that when he hears the marker word, it means good things will happen. Once he has mastered this indoors, it’s time to try it outside, starting far away from the trigger.
- Now you can begin to slowly move closer and closer to the trigger as he is rewarded for looking at you each time. If he barks or lunges at the trigger, you simply need to make a U-turn away from it and start again at a further distance.
- Particularly, if you’re overcoming a fear, this process will take time. Remember that even small steps are a sign of progress. Be patient, stay consistent and confident and you’ll see the benefits. Being confident helps your dog be confident. Your anger or nervousness will simply make your dog more anxious. But by staying calm and confident, you let them know that you have everything under control. If your dog takes a step back and reacts to the trigger, you simply make a U-turn and start again at a greater distance.
- Over time, as your dog learns to pass by a trigger without reacting, you can reduce the treats. Give the treats three out of four times, then two out of four and so on.
- Some dogs will become so excited at a trigger that you can’t get them under control and they simply don’t even hear you when you say the marker word. If you experience this, and can’t seem to get your dog’s attention, there is a training tool you can try. Put some coins in the bottom of a can or plastic bottle and when your dog gets in this “zone,” simply shake the can and say the marker word. The noise should jolt them out of excitable behavior at which point, you can reward them with a treat when they look at you.
- It’s best to avoid petting your dog during this process. If your dog is fearful of a trigger, petting or coddling your dog might have the opposite effect and help legitimize the fear.
Training in this manner should change their feelings about the trigger from negative to positive. But remember too that it’s important to give your dog plenty of exercise and stimulation. Just like humans, dogs that are bored or have bottled up energy may exhibit these emotions in unwanted ways. If after all of this you are still having trouble with your pup, or your dog has bitten or injured someone. Email us at
