CRATE TRAINING

(Before beginning any training, it’s important to first read our article on Leadership.)

Contrary to what some believe, a dog crate is not the place to put a naughty pet for a time out.  Instead, used properly, a crate should provide safety, security, help in house training, prevention of destructive behavior, and benefits to both you and your dog.

For you, the crate can provide quicker house training as dogs do not want to empty their bladder where they sleep.  In addition, it provides peace of mind by helping to avoid destructive behavior while you are gone, offers a safe place for your pet when you travel, and prepares your pet for potential emergencies such as evacuations or surgeries.

For your dog, the crate should be a place of comfort and security.  Dogs naturally seek out small places and the crate is a retreat when your dog is stressed or not feeling well.  The crate also provides a space where your pup can remain indoors, with the family, rather than having to be isolated outside or downstairs when he/she needs to be restricted from something.  Dogs are social creatures and leaving them outside for long periods is not only isolating to your furry friend, but can lead to other potential behavior problems.

Selecting a Crate

Crates come in different materials (plastic, often called flight kennels or Vari-Kennels, and collapsible metal pens), and different sizes. The crate should be just large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around without bumping the top or sides. (Keep in mind that a puppy will outgrow a small crate.)  You want your dog to be comfortable when he’s inside.  Put his bed or a comfortable blanket or pad on the floor of the crate.  You can try different items to find out what he prefers.

Crate Training Your Dog

Note: When following these steps, sit near the crate so that your pet feels secure when near or in the crate.

If possible, have the crate waiting when your new pet arrives. Put the crate into the room where you and your family spend most of your time. You don’t want your pet to experience the crate as a lonely place where he’s left out of what’s happening. He wants to be part of the family. Put the crate where your pet can see the family, taking care not to be in the pathways of the room.  Secure the door open so it can’t swing shut.  Put a dog bed, or something soft and comfortable, inside the crate.

Let your dog notice the crate as he investigates his new home. If he seems interested and looks in the crate, toss in a treat and say “home” (or whatever word you choose.)  If he goes inside, praise him and give another treat. Repeat this multiple times each session and do not close the door.  Then begin to close the door and give a treat when the door is closed – then open it immediately. 

Once he is comfortable being in the crate, extend his time there by closing the door for successively longer periods of time.  Supply him with toys and something to chew on, such as a KONG toy filled with peanut butter and frozen. However, once he is comfortable being in the crate for an extended time, e.g., a half-hour, leave the door open so he can enter whenever he wants to feel safe while resting. Leave a favorite safe toy in the crate so he is tempted to go inside the crate to rest. You want your dog to view the crate as a haven from tension, worry, and chaos.

If your dog doesn’t enter right away, wait a while, and when your dog goes near the crate entrance, quickly put a treat between the dog and the crate door. The next time he goes near the door, put a treat closer. Repeat this, until you put the treat just inside the door. This first part of the training will probably take between several days and a week.

When your pet is comfortable around the crate and puts his head inside the crate to get a treat, put a treat against the back wall of the crate. If he won’t go all the way inside the crate, put the treat successively further and further toward the back. Continue this process until your pet is comfortable being inside. You might try putting his food in the crate and see if that entices him inside.

The Result

With patience and perseverance, you will eventually have a well-behaved pup that knows where to find a peaceful refuge from noise, chaos, and confusion.  Should an emergency arise, your pup will already be comfortable in a crate and avoid the stress of a new situation.  And you’ll have a safe space for him to chew a bone and stay out of the way when the situation warrants it.   Of course, some dogs are quicker learners and more relaxed from the start.  Don’t be ashamed to seek professional help if things don’t work out as planned. At Mostly Mutts, we’re here with many types of behavior help.

At Home Alone

One of the benefits of a crate-trained dog is safety and security when you leave the house. Some dogs can be destructive when left alone due to anxiety or excess energy.  (See our article on chewing). You can train your pet to remain crated when you leave. Begin the training by closing the door to the crate when he is inside and sitting next to it. Start with short periods of time, then slowly increase the length of time the door is shut. A toy will help. Eventually you should be able to leave for several hours. But make sure he has had a chance to do his business first, and remember that puppies have small bladders. Leaving your pet in a locked crate for hours and hours while you go to work is cruel and a bad idea. The crate is not designed to be a dog sitter. If you have to be away from the house for extended lengths of time, employ a dog sitter or a kennel where your pooch can run free.

Do's and Dont's Regarding the Use of Crates

DON'T:

• Use a crate as a baby sitter.
• Leave your dog in a closed crate (after it has become comfortable in it) for more than a few hours.
• Use a crate as punishment.
• Expect to crate train your dog in a couple of days.

DO:

• Be patient when crate training.
• Get help if needed. Mostly Mutts offers many types of training help.
• Be positive. Use treats, praise, and encouragement, not punishment or yelling.
• Teach that the crate is a safe and calm environment.

BEING A GOOD PACK LEADER

The terms, “alpha male” and “alpha person” are popular concepts trending today. They mean the person who is dominant in a group, the person who calls the shots, to whom the members of the group look for guidance. The term is applicable also to dogs. Because dogs are descended from animals that ran in packs, dogs are calmest and happiest when they know who is in charge. If your dog feels like he is in charge, most likely your house is chaotic, with a lot of barking, jumping, and running around. However, if he thinks you are in charge, peace will abound and everyone, including the dog, will be happy. He will be happy because he won’t be confused; he will know his position in the family.

Is Your Dog the Dominant One?

Does your dog bark when the doorbell rings? Climb up on the sofa, even though each time he does, you push him off? Rush at his bowl when you feed him? Tear around the house when your family is sitting at the supper table or trying to watch television? If so, then he thinks he’s the leader in your pack.

Here are the tell-tale signs that he believes he’s in control:

• Demanding behavior
• Begging at the table 
• Stubbornness
• Dog acts as if he is guarding you when another human approaches, but what he’s actually doing is “claiming” to own you.
• When on a leash, your dog is persistent about being in front of you
• Does not obey commands that he knows
• Does not like to be left alone and becomes overly excited when his owner returns home
• Jumps on humans
• Persistent about being on a particular piece of furniture, even after being commanded not to

So, What Can You Do?

What you shouldn’t do is hit, yell at, or punish him. Dogs don’t experience guilt or shame; only fear and confusion. You will have to learn how to use positive reinforcement instead of aversion therapy. How do you do that?

1. Have the right energy.  Dogs communicate through energy, and that’s why a squirrel knows to be afraid of a dog, but not a human on a park bench.  Your dog can sense your feelings without you saying a word.  If you are calm and confident, the dog will perceive you to be in control.  But if you are anxious or indecisive, your dog will think you lack control and therefore believe he needs to take over.
2. Be consistent.  Dogs learn by experience.  If he is never given food at the table, he will not ask for food at the table.  But if you give him a scrap every now and again, he will consistently beg. 
3. Create the rules.  Dogs actually want you to tell them what to do – otherwise, they can become confused and anxious.  So first, decide on the boundaries you want observed, e.g., never on the couch, never in a certain room, no barking when the doorbell rings. Next, enforce these boundaries, ignoring when she oversteps them and rewarding when she observes.  However, if she doesn't do as you wish, be patient, remain calm, and NEVER punish the dog if he breaks the rule. Don’t punish negative behavior; reward positive behavior.
4. Be a good leader.  Your job as leader is to not only provide for your dog’s physical needs, but it’s important to fulfill their psychological needs as well.  Dogs need exercise to drain their energy, discipline to provide clarity, and affection as a reward for calm behavior.

Training in this manner should change their feelings about the trigger from negative to positive.  But remember too that it’s important to give your dog plenty of exercise and stimulation.  Just like humans, dogs that are bored or have bottled up energy may exhibit that in unwanted ways.  If after all of this you are still having trouble with your pup, or your dog has bitten or injured someone, email us for more help at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Do You Have an "Alpha Dog"?

Some dogs are born dominant, and they will naturally be more headstrong, stubborn, and pushy. This is a natural behavior, but it can lead to problems if it’s not properly handled. Here are some ways to make sure you snag the role of alpha instead of your furry friend.

• Never tolerate growling from your dog. That is a sign of alpha dog behavior. Firmly tell your dog "No!"
• Don't let your dog sleep in your bed. The bed is a dominant spot. Your dog should sleep in a doggie bed on the floor beside your bed.
• Don't let your dog walk through the door in front of you. You should go first and then give him permission to come in.
• If your dog is always leaning on you, putting his paw on you, etc., he is not being affectionate. That is a display of alpha dog behavior. You need to be the one to initiate touch.
• If your dog behaves aggressively toward you or other family members, talk to your vet or an animal behaviorist. Don't allow the behavior to continue. The longer it goes on, the harder it will be to correct.
• Teaching your dog basic commands (sit, stay, come here, lie down) reinforces the fact that you are in charge. If you have difficulty training your dog, consider taking him to an obedience class. We offer FREE training for Mutts adopters and affordable training classes for the public.

Rome wasn’t built in a day and nothing is free. Be patient. If at first you don’t succeed, try many more times. Don’t be discouraged if your dog appears to be slow catching on to what you want. It’s not because the dog is selfish and determined to have his own way at all cost. It’s because he’s never been taught the correct thing to do.

If all else fails and you are ready to take him back to the shelter please contact us at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

MUTTS 101 - BASIC TRAINING FOR YOUR DOG

(Before beginning any training, it’s important to first read our article on Leadership.)

If this is your first dog, or if you simply need help getting your pup to learn polite behavior, Mostly Mutts is here for you. This article covers all the basics from food to exercise, and most of the basic commands. When you understand your dog, and your dog understands what you want, the relationship can do wonders for you both. Read on and learn more about how to handle that friendly, furry creature you brought into your life.

Exercise - How Much Does a Dog Need?

While a formula would be nice, it depends on the individual dog.

Puppies will have more energy than senior dogs, and working dogs need more exercise than other breeds. Some athletic breeds need lots of physical exercise while other working dogs are looking for more mental stimulation. The American Kennel Club website has a wealth of information about specific breeds, including general activity and barking levels. Remember that while there are common characteristics, each dog is an individual.

Your dog should be getting time outside every day. Walking gives your dog a chance to burn off energy, engage in the sights and smells of nature, and spend time with you. A well-exercised dog is a calm dog.

Mental stimulation is also key. Puzzle games, treat-filled Kongs, and training activities are ways to put your dog’s mind to work.

You may have noticed that adoptable dogs on the Mostly Mutts site have a designated energy level. That’s based on generalities of the breed and Mostly Mutts staffers’ interactions with the individual dogs.

Food - How Much Does a Dog Need?

At Mostly Mutts, adult dogs eat twice a day while puppies eat three times a day.

If you adopt through Mostly Mutts, the MM coordinators can tell you the type of food and amount your pup has been eating.

Feeding guidelines are generally based on a dog’s size and weight. A formula is usually printed on the side of a can of wet food or bag of kibble. You can always ask your veterinarian if you have questions about how much your dog should be eating.

Crating - How Long Is Appropriate?

A dog should not be crated for more than 3-4 hours at a time during the day. Dogs should be able to go 8 hours at night. But if your dog has received proper training, the crate should not be a necessity, but instead a secure retreat when your pup wants to be alone.

Heat and Cold

Protect your pup’s paws when outdoors in the warmer months, as the ground can be much hotter than the air temperature. If you can’t comfortably hold your hand on the pathway for seven seconds, it is too hot for your dog’s paws.

If it’s 77 degrees outside, asphalt can be 125 degrees, according to the American Kennel Club.

And it goes without saying, NEVER leave your dog in the car when it’s below 30 or above 70. It takes only minutes for a car to reach 115 degrees when it’s only 70 outside. (To avoid other dangers and anxiety, dogs should not be left in a car for more than 5 minutes ever.)

The Basics of Effective Training

• Be confident!
• Positive reinforcement is key!
• High value treats (chicken, Pupperoni) shouldn’t be used for basic training, but should instead be saved for when needed.
• Your dog has a short attention span. Running through a cue 10 times is usually enough for a training session, and you can have multiple sessions in a day.
• Train your dog in a place with minimal distractions.
• If your dog is losing focus, that’s okay! End the training session and try again later. Getting frustrated or yelling isn’t going to help your dog focus.
• Work on training every day, even if it’s just for a few minutes. Repetition and patience are key!
• Once your dog has mastered a step, as in he routinely can follow your command nine times out of 10, you can move on to the next step.
• In the examples below, we’re using an excited “Yesss!” (or word of your choice) to mark that your dog did what you asked of her; and then as positive reinforcement, offer her a high value treat as a reward.

Teaching Your Dog to Sit

• Have your dog on a leash.
• Stand in front of your dog with a treat visible in one hand while you hold his leash in your other hand.
• Hold the treat in front of your dog’s snout and trace an arc up and back over your dog’s head. As your dog follows the treat with his snout, his hind quarters will go down into a seated position.
• Once he’s done this several times, you can introduce the “Sit!” command.

Teaching “Down” or “Lay Down”

*Your dog must first have mastered "sit".

• Start with your leashed dog in a seated position.
• Stand, sit or crouch in front of your dog with a treat visible in one hand while you hold his leash in your other hand.
• Hold the treat in front of your dog’s snout, slowly drawing your hand down to the ground, then pulling the treat along the ground back toward you. Your dog’s snout will follow the treat. Once his paws are extended and he’s in a down position, say “Yesss!” and then give your dog the treat.
• When your dog has done this 10 times, you can introduce the “Jack, down” or “Jack, lay down” command.

Teaching “Stay”

*Your dog must first have mastered "sit".

• Start with your dog in a seated position. Stand in front of him with the leash in one hand, a treat in the other, and your feet hip-width apart.
• Say “Stay!” Hold up hand like a stop sign and then pick up one of your feet and slowly rock back before returning to your initial stance. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, say “stay“ and give your dog the treat. If he didn’t, do not give him the treat and try it again.
• Once successful, try rocking back on your other foot. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, give your dog the treat.
• If you’re having success with the rock-back steps, you’re ready to move on. Say “stay!” and take a small step from your dog before returning to your initial stance. If your dog stayed in the seated position the whole time, give your dog the treat.
• If you’re having success, build on this to taking two steps away, then three steps and beyond. Each time, return to your initial stance, and if your dog hasn’t strayed from his seated position, give him a treat.
• If your dog does get up, DON’T say “no.” Just start again from the beginning.

Teaching “Come”

Did you know you should NEVER chase a dog who is running? You should turn the other direction and start running. The dog will in turn follow. So, let's train COME to be fun and rewarding. Get two people each with treats standing about 30 feet away from each other. Say your dog's name and come. “Marley, Come.” That's it. Look at your toes once you say the command. Once again, dogs follow our eyes for direction. Reward once the dog comes. Only say the command 3 times counting to 10 in between each command. You can also add kissing sounds and or clapping to help. If the dog does not come walk away. They must fail to succeed. Come closer together to help him out if needed.

Then, to strengthen, add distance between the two people. Also add corners, so the dog cannot see you. Start to apply this in the backyard -- every time you call them reward with a treat. If they don't come, close the door and walk away for one minute, then try again. Once your dog is mastering the command at home, you can begin to try in places with distractions. You want to make sure that if your dog takes off that he will stop dead in his tracks when you say come, no matter the distraction!

Teaching “Leave it”

Phase 1: Put a treat in hand and make a fist. Place in front of dog’s nose. Let him sniff, lick, nipple and ignore and do not move your hand! Once he pulls his head away, say "LEAVE IT" and hand him the treat. Repeat this until you get 9 out of 10 where he doesn't attempt to sniff or lick the hand.

Phase 2: Now your dog understands what Leave It means! Put the treat between your thumb and pointer finger, all the way to the bottom of your finger and squeeze it, making a four. Present your hand to your dog and say "LEAVE IT” as the hand is moving to his nose. At first, he will sniff and be interested in the treat. You can say "LEAVE IT" one more time. The dog should move his head slightly away from your hand, the give him the treat. You want 9 out of 10 of moving head away from hand before you move onto Phase 3.

Phase 3: Put the treat in the palm of your hand, with your hand open. As you present it, say "LEAVE IT". The dogs head should move away. Give him the treat. Get 9 out of 10 before you move onto Phase 4.

Phase 4: Put the treat on the ground in front of your dog. As you are placing it on the ground, say "LEAVE IT". Do NOT let the dog get the treat! Slowly build up time of the treat being in front of him. and give him the treat. NEVER let your dog come to the treat. ALWAYS bring the treat to him. Now that your dog knows “leave it,” you can apply it to daily life.

Start by practicing “leave it” for one or two things. Some examples: If your dog eats shoes, set up training sessions with the shoe on the ground and say "LEAVE IT" then reward. Later, when you see your dog going for a shoe, all you need to do is say "LEAVE IT". Another example is when/if your dog growls or gets over excited when it sees another dog on walks. As that dog approaches, say "LEAVE IT" and reward. In this case you will need to say it multiple times to build up their tolerance. So as the dog approaches say, "LEAVE IT", reward and repeat. You want your dog to look at the approaching dog, say "LEAVE IT" look again, say "LEAVE IT" and so on. Each walk you can add a couple of seconds between the “LEAVE IT" building their tolerance.

Teaching “Drop it”

• Start by playing tug with your dog, while you have treats hidden in your hand or pocket.
• Say, “Drop it” and hold the treat right in front of his nose.
• He should drop the tug toy out of excitement to get the treat. (That’s why high-value treats are key.) As soon as he drops the toy, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver the treat

Teaching “Place”

• This is often taught using a dog/bathmat. The point is to provide a defined location.
• Lure your dog to the designated place.
• When he puts all four paws on the dog mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
• After you have done this multiple times, say “place” and walk with your dog to the mat. When he puts all four paws on the mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
• Note that you should always be looking at the mat once you say “place”. If you’re not looking at your dog, your dog will want to know what you’re looking at, so his eyes will go where yours go.
• Keep repeating these steps.
• Eventually, you should get to the point where you say “Place” and start to head toward the mat and your dog will walk there on his own. Say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat. Then work to where you can say “Place” and nod your head toward the mat. If your dog walks there on his own, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.
• Over time, add in a few extra steps between your starting point and the mat.
• Each time your dog puts all four paws on the mat, say “Yesss!” and quickly deliver a treat.

How Long Does Training Take?

Training for a dog is a lifelong experience.  You should always be reinforcing the behaviors you want to see in your dog with treats and praise.  Training can also help you bond more quickly with your new pet.  It does take time for dogs to settle into new homes:

• 3 Days – the length of time it takes a dog to decompress in a new environment.
• 3 Weeks – the length of time it takes a dog to get used to a new routine.
• 3 Months – the length of time it takes a dog to feel at home in a new environment.

Having behavior problems that you can’t solve?

If you’ve been working with your dog patiently and are still having significant problems click here for more behavior help.

Common Foods That Are Toxic to Dogs

This is not a complete list

• Alcohol
• Avocados
• Chocolate
• Citrus fruits
• Coffee grounds
• Coconuts
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Mushrooms
• Onions
• Raisins
• Raw eggs
• Raw meat
• Xylitol (a sweetener commonly found in sugar-free foods such as sugarless gum. Note that some nut butters may also use xylitol.)

POTTY TRAINING

(For best results, read our article on Leadership before beginning any other training.)

So you just adopted a puppy or got a dog that is not house trained, and you’re dealing with unpleasant accidents in the house.  Do not despair!  Potty training is a relatively simple process.  Your dog doesn’t know that there is a proper place to relieve himself, but he will happily and willingly go to that place with some positivity and consistency on your part.  Read on.

Golden Rules to Remember

1. Be consistent. Dogs thrive when they don’t have to guess what you expect of them. So do everything on schedule: feeding, walking, going out to potty, and playing --at the same time every day.
2. Be patient. Your dog isn’t born knowing what you expect of him.  It’s comparable to teaching a baby, although a puppy learns much faster.
3. Be positive. Never punish him, in any way, when he doesn’t catch on quickly (or after a long period of time). Dogs don’t feel guilt; only fear and confusion. Yelling or  hitting a dog who urinates in the corner of the living room won’t break him of the habit. It will only cause fear, and lead him to sneak off  somewhere when he next has to go. Instead, give positive reinforcement and reward him when he gets it right.

Choosing and Using a Spot

Choose an area, if possible, out of doors; if not possible, on a pad, and take your dog to this spot. Remove any solid waste. Dogs like to return to the place they have marked.

 Associate a marker word or phrase with relieving himself. Say it when you think he should go out, when you are taking him out, when you arrive at the chosen spot, and when he goes, so he associates the word or phrase with elimination.

Plan on spending time every day for a week or two during the training. At the beginning, you may have to get up during the night to take him outside. If you have to suspend training because you have to go out of town, consider having someone live in and continue the training.

When There Are Accidents

If, before she is trained, she goes on the floor or rug, clean up the spot with a deodorizer so she won’t be tempted to go there again. If she has frequent accidents, consider a trip to a veterinarian. A urinary infection or other medical problem may be causing such behavior.

Using a crate for potty training

A popular way to teach a dog to relieve herself in a designated area is with a crate. Teaching a dog to go into a crate when she wants to lie down or sleep is not cruel. If taught correctly, it will provide him with a place to which he can go and feel safe. He will have a place to call his own. Dogs don’t like to lie where they urinate of defecate, so if the crate is only big enough for her to stand up, turn around, and lie down, she won’t relieve herself in her crate. Teaching them to like her crate is easy using treats. The crate should be as near to the exterior door as possible.

If you choose not to use a crate, you will simply need to take him outside more often.  Monitor him carefully for signs he has to go.

Pick up his bowl when he finishes eating, and about fifteen minutes later take him outside to the area you’ve chosen. If nothing happens after ten minutes, take him inside and put him in his crate. Fifteen minutes later, go back outside. Continue this routine until he’s successful, then immediately reward him. Dogs like to go where they have gone before, and having one place will cause him to associate it with elimination and rewards. A grassy spot is preferable, but if not feasible, use a pad.

How Frequently Does a Dog Have to Pee?

An adult dog can control his bladder for five or six hours. A puppy, of course, for much less time. A rule of thumb for puppies is one hour for each month of age until five months. However, if you see your dog walking in circles, whining, sniffing the rug, he may have to go outside ahead of his schedule. If he does go when you take him outside, make a big issue of it and reward. Until you get to know your dog’s routine, it may be a good idea to take him outside after a long nap.

You can begin by taking him out every hour.  If there are no accidents, add 30 minutes every 3 to 4 days until you get to know how long they can hold it.

Still Having Problems?

If you’ve been working with your dog patiently and are still having significant problems, click here for more behavior help.

DOG BARKING

(Before beginning any training, it’s important to first read our article on Leadership.)

Why your dog is barking and what to do

Dogs bark to communicate, signaling anything from playfulness to aggression to alert to boredom. But what if your dog’s barking has crossed the line from communication to nuisance? The key to addressing your dog’s barking is understanding when and why he is barking.

GENERAL STRATEGIES TO ADDRESS BARKING

• A well-exercised dog is a tired dog…and sleepy dogs tend be quieter dogs.
• Reward your dog with attention, scratches, playtime and treats when he is exhibiting the behaviors you “like” to see – whether that’s lounging quietly or occupying himself with toys. If you’re only acknowledging the “bad” behaviors, you’re doing a disservice to yourself, your dog and your bond. You’ll notice “bad” behaviors more than the “good” behaviors, likely grow frustrated, and you won’t be giving your dog the positive feedback about his “good” behaviors.

• Don’t punish your dog by raising your voice. It might shock him in the moment, but it’s not going to build the bond you want and may result in a more anxious dog (which can lead to other behavior issues).

Barking - territorial or greeting

Dogs may bark when they see people or dogs passing by your home, or when there’s a knock on the door. Over time, you can train your dog not to bark at triggers like this.

STRATEGIES

• If you’ve taught your dog the "stay" command, utilize it when the doorbell rings. Reward your dog for staying in place. If she moves out of place, start again.
• When there’s a knock at the door, get your dog’s attention with a high value treat (think cheese, hot dog, pepperoni, or his favorite snack) and lead him into a room away from the door. In time, the dog will begin to associate the sound with the treats in the new location.
• Keep a spray bottle filled with water by the door. If your dog starts barking excessively, say “no” firmly and then squirt him right between the eyes. (Don’t forget the “no” just prior to the spray. That’s an essential part of the training.) The spray is annoying but not harmful, and your dog will learn that the barking leads to the firm “no” that is a precursor to the squirt. You can also try placing some coins in a plastic bottle and shaking it when your dog barks immediately following the word “no.”
• Ask your neighbors, mail carrier, walkers with dogs or whoever is triggering your dog if you can introduce your (leashed!) dog to them. Sometimes all it takes is a bit of familiarity…and sometimes it takes repeated interactions over time to override the barking behavior. Make sure to give your pup treats and positive verbal reinforcement when he stays quiet.
• If, during the introduction, your dog continues to bark excessively, create more and more distance between him and the trigger until he ceases barking. You may need to break the line of sight to accomplish this. Dole out the treats when he is quiet. (Bonus: If he’s chewing, he’s not barking.) If he begins to associate the sight of the person or dog with treats, he’ll be less inclined to bark non-stop.
• Draw curtains, close blinds or otherwise obstruct your dog’s view of the outdoors. If he can’t see it, he can’t react to it.

Demanding attention by barking

Dogs sometimes bark simply to get your attention. If you give your attention to them - even if it’s to tell them to stop barking - you are rewarding the behavior, which is the surest way to prolong it.

STRATEGIES

• If your dog isn’t in need of water or a potty break, ignoring attention-seeking vocalizations is the surest way to curb the barking or whining. (And, yes, this is much easier in theory than in practice.)
• Ignore your dog until he is quiet and only then give him the attention, treat, or reward he is looking for. Consistency and patience are important. If you respond to his barking, even if it’s to correct him, you are providing the attention he is craving.
• Walk away
• Citronella collars will spray when your dog barks and some dogs respond well to this.

Barking from frustration

A bored dog can be a loud and destructive dog. That stands to reason. How else can she let you know she’s dissatisfied?

Think about the day from your dog’s point of view. He is totally reliant on you for going outside, playing games of fetch, interacting with humans and dogs, and getting toys, treats and affection. You provide the opportunities for your dog’s physical and mental stimulation. If he has no stimulation throughout the day, just like a child, he is going to become frustrated.

Additionally, dogs need to release energy through exercise. So what is an appropriate amount? While a formula would be nice, it depends on the dog. You may have noticed that adoptable dogs on the Mostly Mutts site have a designated energy level. That’s based on generalities of the breed and MM staffers’ interactions with the individual dogs. It stands to reason that puppies have more energy than senior dogs, and working dogs need more exercise than other breeds. Remember that while there are common characteristics, each dog is an individual. The American Kennel Club website has a wealth of information about specific breeds, including general activity and barking levels.

STRATEGIES

• Make sure your dog is getting exercise and stimulation. Walks, games of catch, a variety of toys, mini-training sessions, and puzzles they must solve to get to the treat inside all work well. 

Barking from separation anxiety

When your pup is left alone, he lets everyone hear about it…and then you may hear about it from your neighbors.

STRATEGIES

• Leave on the radio, television or white noise machine on for your dog.
• Give your dog certain toys only when you’re leaving. The novelty may help entertain your dog in your absence. A favorite treat that takes a while to eat (perhaps stuffing a Kong with peanut butter and sticking it in the freezer until you need to leave) can become a reward they only get when home alone. You can hide that toy in an easy-to-sniff-out location to give your dog a bit more to do in your absence.
• Puzzle toys are a great way to occupy your dog while you’re away.
• Give your dog a good walk and opportunity to potty before you leave.
• If you’ve crate-trained your dog, he will see the crate as his personal safe space. You can crate your dog if you’ll be leaving him alone for a few hours.
• If none of the above strategies are working, email us at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. 

Other barking dog deterrents

STRATEGIES

• Place a few pennies inside a plastic bottle. As soon as your dog engages in a behavior you want to discourage, such as excessive barking, shake the bottle. The noise will startle the dog and cause him to cease the behavior. Immediately engage your dog in a more acceptable behavior, such as playing with a toy.
• A firm “no” followed by a squirt from a water bottle may also work in this situation.
• Remain calm with your dog. The energy you bring to your interactions and training sessions has an impact on your pup.
• Citronella collars.

Still having problems?

If you’ve been working with your dog patiently and are still having significant problems, click here for more behavior help.